We have a similar setup for lights that aren't just tied up to motion sensors :)
I'm sure I've seen a mollyguard-like printable that covers the rocker of the switch to prevent accidental presses. It had a slot in it so you could still flip the switch with a card or similar thing object.
Honestly, the first rebirth as a run-of-the-mill article aggregator was better. A lot of it I'd have already seen elsewhere, but occasionally it'd have something interesting that I missed.
Whatever they do, they'll still be riding the name of a very dead horse.
Another user helped me out by sending me a Sureflap.
You can still integrate this into homeassistant - just need to buy in a particular esp unit and contact Peter on the homeassistant forums (see thread) for the firmware.
We're all set up now:
The OnlyCat flap looks very nice, but the price is insane & the online requirement is a deal-breaker. Even the non-sub option requires activation online afaik, so that's just no.
Yes, with the caveat that you need to be 100% sure they are cut off from outside when you get the keys. Whatever device is handling your connection needs to have the features to be able to do that, but often ISP provided kit will not.
The most recommended way is to isolate them on their own VLAN. I have few enough not to bother, and just give them static DHCP reservations from a block of addresses that are disallowed outside access. This has worked fine for me for over a year.
If they get any opportunity to phone home though, the local key may change abruptly and you'll have to go through the process again.
Flashing alternative firmware is always the best solution, but it's the most technical and sometimes not possible without physically ruining the device. Or it just might not have a supported chip.
Local Tuya fills that gap nicely. Just need the keys. A dev account is free and renewable at no cost. You can also use older versions of the Tuya/Smartlife app that expose the info. Some have had success that way with an Android VM like Bluestacks.
Love this part of my work. Benefits of small business that's 90% B2B I suppose.
The phone tree is one level deep by design. You dial, listen to options and then pick one. There's no bullshit 'use the website' or 'have you considered our other shit?' The hold music doesn't suck and it's only interrupted by an actual person that can help you.
No script when you are put through. Just me, the user, and whatever I can cobble together and cajole into a solution.
You can at least get the who's in/out with a pair of cheap cameras (one inside, one out) and the frigate add-on. Set up for cat detection it's fairly decent:
If you build up enough images of your creatures, you could even train a model to recognise them each specifically.
The one that has the little hub with the light up ears?
Last I heard the local workaround was updated out of the software and that one dev had taken their project on it private, due to the manufacturer actively working to make it difficult.
Insane price to buy new, and have been getting a kicking in the reviews for poor function & support. I was considering, because it would be nice to have in HA, but all the above has put me off it.
Will probably end up with a standard chip reader flap and continue to rely on cameras for IDing who's in and out. All I'd want remotely is a way to force an unlock, for dealing with any failures to open. Could maybe mod that in.
They never asked me for that (UK here). Was up and running with just the basics in minutes. Are you on a list? 😅
They do have a waiting/payment cycle period on their server offering before they'll open mail ports. Once you qualify, you still need to raise a ticket to ask. That was a bit annoying as my new ISP is stricter with the ports than prior, meaning I had to wait before my relay workaround could send mail.
Learning the word 'in' and what pointing at the other room/snapping fingers means was the first step. Took a while, but enough picking up/putting down, blocking and gentle scooting got the point home.
After that, get them 'in' and start making food on the counter, not direct to bowls on the floor. When a cat crosses the boundary, stop serving up and put them back in either by command or physically. Be belligerent about it if you need to be. Resume/repeat until everyone's dishes are ready.
When ready, I call the first one in by name and put bowls down. The rest quickly follow.
You may find that the cat with the most bossiness/brains/food drive helps keep the others back on pain of biffing, cause they know intrusion means food delay.
